Tantalum and ceramic capacitors are probably still okay, and the design appears to use a lot of tantalum ones. ![]() 100uF) and at least the same voltage rating. I'd start by replacing those, with the same values (e.g. There may be others - I've only looked at it briefly. That will be any electrolytic - can shaped. C32, on the schematic I've just looked at is 100uF/35V (capacity and voltage rating), shown close to a bridge rectifier (drawn as four diodes). In mains AC powered things, there's usually some smoothing the output of the rectifier. In any older equipment, there's a good chance any electrolytic capacitors in it will have failed, or at least changed their values. Hi Andrew - I only just saw that question. Thanks for reading, I hope I made myself sufficiently clear, I hope somebody's been there before and can steer me right.ĭid you end up fixing the voltage issue in the Micro Synth? I know it's been forever ago but I also have a vintage micro synth with an AC cord and it's partially working just as you have described. ![]() The other way is to cut all three traces. This seems like it would work, but would the normal slider not always be in parallel with the exp pedal, lowering the resistance? Wouldn't this mess with the sweep and/or current draw? Wire both ends of the sliderpot to the ring and sleeve and both ends of the cut trace to the tip and the tip-switch, so that they connect when nothing is plugged in. Am I correct in assuming that to do this one you have to cut the trace to the wiper of the slider you want to 'express'? Then use a switching stereo jack (tip,ring,sleeve). To me this seems okay, but then I have no electronics background except for tinkering.Īnd lastly: the expression jack. For values maybe a 50k pot and a 25k ground reference. the 13k for the lower octave)?Ĭan I use the output of the buffered-bypass for a wet/dry control? Feeding the buffer-output to one end of a pot, then the effect-output to the other end, taking the mixed output from the wiper and referencing to ground. When true bypassing is the volume pretty matched between on/off? And if I want to give some voices (mainly both octaves) more volume range, do I just lower the mixing resistor (e.g. I've been trying to find answers to the following questions, but so far I'm only finding people asking the same thing and links to pictures that are no longer there. So far, so good.īut then I'd also like to add a dry/wet control and a exp-jack for the stop control. I'll make it switchable between bass and guitar, true-bypass it, add a statusLED. I like it a lot but plan on making it as useful to me as possible. I'm currently on a trip through the states and picked up a Microsynth, one of the large-box reissues. So, thanks a lot! Unfortunately my first post is one presenting questions instead of contributions. (If it fail, make sure that you have the correct drivers installed, the correct isp programmer name, the "firmware" folder with all the others files in it, good connection on your circuit, and the AtMega out of the circuit (put it on a blank breadboard just to program it) and well connected to its 16Mhz crystal on the proper pins.I've been lurking here for years and have built some wonderful pedals thanks to all of you. (black spots left to the atmega, names are in blue on the left on the picture.) Take attention when doing it, if you plug it the wrong way, you may destroy your atmega32 !ĭone ! Firmware flashed on the microcontroler ! :D ![]() Then connect the programmer to the computer and the pins to their right spot on the stripboard. I added the command "pause" at the end to prevent the console to close herself after process is done, that way you can see if the process went successfully or failed. Mine is "usbasp" so here is my file : avrdude -c usbasp -p m32 -B 5 -U flash:w:anode.hex -U lfuse:w:0xBF:m -U hfuse:w:0xD9:m pause Open the file "make-anode.bat" in the firmware folder, and change the name after "-C" to the name of your isp programmer. Install WinAVR (for windows) (to allow the computer communicate with the atmega trough the programmer) : Link HERE I'm just going to give you the headlines on how to do it with the isp programmer listed before (make sure that the drivers are installed correctly, you can fin useful infos on that by searching on Google.) You can see detailed instruction on how to do it HERE. To burn the firmware on the atmega32, you first need to download the firmware folder on GitHub.
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